Patriot's Point Naval and Maritime Museum is a great place for kids and adults alike. The focal point is the U.S.S. Yorktown aircraft carrier, one of World War II's most famous vessels. There are two smaller ships, a submarine, and a replica Vietnam naval support base as well. Claire could have stayed there all day. First we toured the hangar deck of the carrier, where she had a great time seeing the World War II aircraft display and pushing all the buttons on an early spacecraft. I couldn't get her in the cutaway fighter cockpit, but I had fun pretending I was pulling multiple Gs as I made a loop. Gina captured my "flight" on tape for posterity. Claire climbed up several flights of steep steps and maneuvered through tight hallways and display areas to get to the flight deck. She didn't want to go out at first. The flight deck was so big that I think she believed we were leaving the ship. After she got out there, the fun really began. Claire spotted two dolphins swimming beneath the waters near the ship, she had a great time walking under jet fighters on display, and she tried to shove one across the deck. She pushed and pushed with all her might and exclaimed "help me Daddy." |
At first I was concerned whether Claire would be quiet enough on a carriage ride, but not to worry. It wasn't really a formal tour of the city as much as a fun ride. That doesn't mean that the guide didn't impart a lot of knowledge. We learned lots of interesting facts about the city's history and architecture, including the stories of fire insurance markers and earthquake rods. We also got the lowdown on just how many millions some of these houses go for on the market. We didn't have to pay until the end of the tour. Small children were free, as long as they sat on an adult's lap. The tour ran a little long, so we had to hustle back to the hotel to dress for dinner with my cousin and her husband. Of course this had to be the time that I finally got in a traffic jam at the Cooper River Bridge. Nevertheless, we almost made it on time to the Boathouse restaurant on Isle of Palms (at Breach Inlet). I had read good things about this location and had recommendations from locals I met. It is a very popular spot. My cousin had made reservations many hours earlier, but even then our preferred time was not available. The seafood was very good. I enjoyed a broiled combination. The setting was great as well. We had a beautiful view of the sun setting across the marshes. However, it is not a place I would pick for romance or conversation because it is pretty noisy. Claire had never met my cousin or her husband and was a little shy at first, but Claire takes to strangers in no time. By the end of the meal, she was climbing around on Tim and having a ball. We went back to their house afterwards, and Claire could have stayed to play all night. |
A carriage ride is perhaps the most popular activity in Charleston. It is nearly a must with a child. The carriages leave from Anson St., perpendicular to the City Market. You can buy tickets right there. Our interest in taking a ride got us free parking at a small lot, and we went into the "big red barn" to wait for our turn. We used Palmetto, but there are numerous options. Mules, not horses, pulled Palmetto's carriages. Carriages are strictly regulated by the city to maintain traffic flow and safety. Our carriage stopped at a checkpoint just after leaving the mall, and a uniformed woman assigned us to one of the tourist zones. Your zone determines what part of the city your tour will cover, so while a carriage ride is fun it is not going to show you all the sights. Our tour covered King Street, part of Meeting Street, Whitepoint Gardens, and a few other spots. At one point our carriage stopped while one of the mules emptied gallons of liquid waste onto the street (if you know what I mean). The driver dropped a red marker, explaining that it told city sanitation where to stop and clean the street. He also said that occasionally tourists take these markers. Boy, that's some souvenir! |
Our first stop was Magnolia Plantation, one of the Ashley River plantations off of Hwy 61. We took Hwy 526 from Mt. Pleasant and arrived in about 30-40 minutes. There are other options, but this highway completely avoids downtown Charleston. Drayton Hall and Middleton Place are the other two plantations along this stretch; we had visited both on an earlier trip. Middleton would also be good for kids because of its animals and demonstrations (cow milking, blacksmiths, etc), but Magnolia is certainly the best. Magnolia has been the ancestral home of the prominent Drayton family since the 17th century. Its grounds were the first major public gardens in the New World and have been open to the public since the 1860s. As we arrived, we drove up behind two buses full of yet more school kids. While a teacher called back to the school and debated how to pay for the excursion, I slipped my car around and prayed that we would avoid the huge throngs of students. The original plantation house no longer stands, but you can tour an 18th-century house (moved here after the Civil War), part of which contains gift shops. This is definitely the most touristy plantation around Charleston. We bought tickets for a later boat ride (they were filling up quickly) and headed to the petting zoo. Claire really enjoyed seeing the deer, goats, peacock, and other animals. She even fed a deer. |
In the afternoon we left for Patriot's Point to take the boat out to Ft. Sumter. Gina and I had been before but thought Claire would enjoy the boat ride. The boat takes about 35 minutes each way. It too was loaded with school kids. Just couldn't get away from them, but they weren't all that bad. The harbor is fun for children. Claire got to watch seagulls, cargo ships, and even a couple of dolphins on the way out. The narration on the history of the surrounding islands is interesting if you can hear it over all the noise on board. We skipped the short lecture at Ft. Sumter, since we had heard it only a few years ago. Claire enjoyed walking around in the fort, but Gina had to chase her down before we left. You only get an hour to look around, and while there isn't a lot to see, it can feel rushed if you take many photos and stop in the museum. The museum is fairly small but has a decent collection, including a flag that flew at Ft. Sumter. I found an afternoon visit perfect for photographing the fort from the water because the angle of the sun was about right. We went out for a quick fast food dinner so that we could make it to an IMAX theater presentation on whales. We have a new IMAX near home, but this was my first time at one. The movie was educational, and the footage was beautiful. Claire enjoyed the movie but liked the popcorn even more. There were less than ten people in the whole theater. On the way out, I called my first cousin in Charleston to arrange a dinner and visit. We had only seen one another once in ten years. |
Charleston - 2002 - A Family Trip Part II |
We started the day with another trip to the beach. What a huge difference from the weekend crowds, but still a bus full of young elementary kids was unloading as we arrived. Claire was only a little interested in playing on the beach today. I spent well over an hour watching her play in the small playground at the park. She and a local child had a great time covering the parents with sand. |
In the afternoon we left for Patriot's Point to take the boat out to Ft. Sumter. Gina and I had been before but thought Claire would enjoy the boat ride. The boat takes about 35 minutes each way. It too was loaded with school kids. Just couldn't get away from them, but they weren't all that bad. The harbor is fun for children. Claire got to watch seagulls, cargo ships, and even a couple of dolphins on the way out. The narration on the history of the surrounding islands is interesting if you can hear it over all the noise on board. We skipped the short lecture at Ft. Sumter, since we had heard it only a few years ago. Claire enjoyed walking around in the fort, but Gina had to chase her down before we left. You only get an hour to look around, and while there isn't a lot to see, it can feel rushed if you take many photos and stop in the museum. The museum is fairly small but has a decent collection, including a flag that flew at Ft. Sumter. I found an afternoon visit perfect for photographing the fort from the water because the angle of the sun was about right. We went out for a quick fast food dinner so that we could make it to an IMAX theater presentation on whales. We have a new IMAX near home, but this was my first time at one. The movie was educational, and the footage was beautiful. Claire enjoyed the movie but liked the popcorn even more. There were less than ten people in the whole theater. On the way out, I called my first cousin in Charleston to arrange a dinner and visit. We had only seen one another once in ten years. |
Wednesday, May 15, 2002 - Magnolia Plantation and a Carriage Ride |
Tuesday, May 14, 2002 - More beach and Ft. Sumter |
Our first stop was Magnolia Plantation, one of the Ashley River plantations off of Hwy 61. We took Hwy 526 from Mt. Pleasant and arrived in about 30-40 minutes. There are other options, but this highway completely avoids downtown Charleston. Drayton Hall and Middleton Place are the other two plantations along this stretch; we had visited both on an earlier trip. Middleton would also be good for kids because of its animals and demonstrations (cow milking, blacksmiths, etc), but Magnolia is certainly the best. Magnolia has been the ancestral home of the prominent Drayton family since the 17th century. Its grounds were the first major public gardens in the New World and have been open to the public since the 1860s. As we arrived, we drove up behind two buses full of yet more school kids. While a teacher called back to the school and debated how to pay for the excursion, I slipped my car around and prayed that we would avoid the huge throngs of students. The original plantation house no longer stands, but you can tour an 18th-century house (moved here after the Civil War), part of which contains gift shops. This is definitely the most touristy plantation around Charleston. We bought tickets for a later boat ride (they were filling up quickly) and headed to the petting zoo. Claire really enjoyed seeing the deer, goats, peacock, and other animals. She even fed a deer. |
As we arrived, we drove up behind two buses full of yet more school kids. While a teacher called back to the school and debated how to pay for the excursion, I slipped my car around and prayed that we would avoid the huge throngs of students. The original plantation house no longer stands, but you can tour an 18th-century house (moved here after the Civil War), part of which contains gift shops. This is definitely the most touristy plantation around Charleston. We bought tickets for a later boat ride (they were filling up quickly) and headed to the petting zoo. Claire really enjoyed seeing the deer, goats, peacock, and other animals. She even fed a deer. Along with the various garden walks, Magnolia offers tram and boat rides. The tram does not overlap with the regular garden walks. We chose the boat, which takes passengers on about an hour-long tour of the marshes where the plantation's rice was grown. The boats only hold about 15 people and travel at a quiet and leisurely pace. The driver/guide told us about the plantation's history and the agricultural methods used to produce rice crops. We also encountered several alligators lounging around in the water or on boards placed in the marsh for that purpose. We saw several interesting types of birds as well. Claire was mostly interested in seeing alligators in the wild for the first time. Whenever we spotted them, the guide would switch from talking about history to discussing the plantation gator population. The gardens are certainly the star attractions. They contain numerous small lakes and foot bridges. The whole garden walking tour should take about 1½ hours. It was nice, but if you have a choice, I am sure earlier in the spring is more spectacular because more of the flowers would be in bloom then. I enjoyed seeing the tomb of the Drayton family, which dated back to the 17th century. A photo of the interior showed that because most of the coffins were made of wood only the earliest and latest interred bodies are still enclosed in coffins. The rest have formed a jumble of bones and debris. The tomb is fascinating from a historic perspective. On one side you can see bayonet and bullet marks from Sherman's troops and a large crack left by the great earthquake of 1886. Another part of the gardens contains a replica of a 19th century rice barge used to haul the crops to Charleston. There was a Web cam at the last big bridge to the left of the main house (when facing it). |
Magnolia has a small snack bar selling chicken sandwiches, hotdogs, hamburgers, and similar foods, and the price isn't too bad. We grabbed some grub and ate at one of the sheltered picnic tables. On the way out we passed a slave cabin and stopped at the Audobon Swamp Gardens. The Swamp Gardens are included in the basic admission fee. We thoroughly enjoyed a peaceful, solitary walk (30-40 minutes) across narrow footpaths and bridges that took us through bright green waters. We encountered several large alligators, and some were even swimming around. Apparently, past visitors would sometimes have frightening encounters with gators on the paths, although the staff assured us no one at Magnolia had ever been attacked. Now, low wire fencing keeps gators off the tourist routes. Claire enjoyed growling and acting like an alligator was getting her mother. We also saw many turtles, and one part of the swamp contained dozens of nesting herons. A very short detour took us to a cemetery containing numerous marked graves of plantation workers. Don't go to Magnolia without visiting the Swamp Gardens. Take binoculars for an even better experience. |
A carriage ride is perhaps the most popular activity in Charleston. It is nearly a must with a child. The carriages leave from Anson St., perpendicular to the City Market. You can buy tickets right there. Our interest in taking a ride got us free parking at a small lot, and we went into the "big red barn" to wait for our turn. We used Palmetto, but there are numerous options. Mules, not horses, pulled Palmetto's carriages. Carriages are strictly regulated by the city to maintain traffic flow and safety. Our carriage stopped at a checkpoint just after leaving the mall, and a uniformed woman assigned us to one of the tourist zones. Your zone determines what part of the city your tour will cover, so while a carriage ride is fun it is not going to show you all the sights. Our tour covered King Street, part of Meeting Street, Whitepoint Gardens, and a few other spots. At one point our carriage stopped while one of the mules emptied gallons of liquid waste onto the street (if you know what I mean). The driver dropped a red marker, explaining that it told city sanitation where to stop and clean the street. He also said that occasionally tourists take these markers. Boy, that's some souvenir! |
At first I was concerned whether Claire would be quiet enough on a carriage ride, but not to worry. It wasn't really a formal tour of the city as much as a fun ride. That doesn't mean that the guide didn't impart a lot of knowledge. We learned lots of interesting facts about the city's history and architecture, including the stories of fire insurance markers and earthquake rods. We also got the lowdown on just how many millions some of these houses go for on the market. We didn't have to pay until the end of the tour. Small children were free, as long as they sat on an adult's lap. The tour ran a little long, so we had to hustle back to the hotel to dress for dinner with my cousin and her husband. Of course this had to be the time that I finally got in a traffic jam at the Cooper River Bridge. Nevertheless, we almost made it on time to the Boathouse restaurant on Isle of Palms (at Breach Inlet). I had read good things about this location and had recommendations from locals I met. It is a very popular spot. My cousin had made reservations many hours earlier, but even then our preferred time was not available. The seafood was very good. I enjoyed a broiled combination. The setting was great as well. We had a beautiful view of the sun setting across the marshes. However, it is not a place I would pick for romance or conversation because it is pretty noisy. Claire had never met my cousin or her husband and was a little shy at first, but Claire takes to strangers in no time. By the end of the meal, she was climbing around on Tim and having a ball. We went back to their house afterwards, and Claire could have stayed to play all night. |
Thursday, May 16, 2002 - Submarines and Fried Chicken |
Patriot's Point Naval and Maritime Museum is a great place for kids and adults alike. The focal point is the U.S.S. Yorktown aircraft carrier, one of World War II's most famous vessels. There are two smaller ships, a submarine, and a replica Vietnam naval support base as well. Claire could have stayed there all day. First we toured the hangar deck of the carrier, where she had a great time seeing the World War II aircraft display and pushing all the buttons on an early spacecraft. I couldn't get her in the cutaway fighter cockpit, but I had fun pretending I was pulling multiple Gs as I made a loop. Gina captured my "flight" on tape for posterity. Claire climbed up several flights of steep steps and maneuvered through tight hallways and display areas to get to the flight deck. She didn't want to go out at first. The flight deck was so big that I think she believed we were leaving the ship. After she got out there, the fun really began. Claire spotted two dolphins swimming beneath the waters near the ship, she had a great time walking under jet fighters on display, and she tried to shove one across the deck. She pushed and pushed with all her might and exclaimed "help me Daddy." |
Claire really became infatuated with submarines. At first she didn't seem thrilled about going aboard. With kids this age you often have to convince them to do something that you know they are going to love. She climbed down the steps and tentatively made her way through a few hatchways. Before long, she insisted on doing it all herself and gained a lot of confidence in her ability to make it through. Claire was more interested in the sub as a tunnel than any of the contents. After short visits to the destroyer and coast guard cutter, we let Claire have another go at the submarine. She went through in record time and enjoyed the whole thing immensely. Before leaving, we bought Claire a bathtub sub from the large gift shop. |
We ended the day with an afternoon at the beach and then headed over to Jestine's Kitchen for dinner. What a great decision that was! We had some of the absolute best country/soul cooking we have ever experienced. The pecan fried chicken (in a batter containing pecans) was thick, juicy, and mouthwatering; I have never had fried chicken any better, and that is saying something for a Southerner. This recipe is not on the menu every night. The fried green tomatoes, okra and tomatoes, and biscuits were all top notch. It was among the best meals that I have ever eaten in Charleston and at a fraction of the price of many places. After the meal, we walked around the City Market. We bought a few items from one of the few merchants operating at this late hour and took in the festive atmosphere near the market. |
This page was last updated on: September 8,
2002
Text and photos copyright 1984-2002 Dan Woodlief |
The One-eyed Traveler |
